What the H-E-double hockey sticks!

Phil @ Aero K

Phil @ Aero K

AK's V.P.
Driver
Ok....@ the time of DDay8 i noticed my car was acting a bit wierd...as most of you heard on the track when i would get into high RPMs my car would make a wierd like humming noise and i would lose all power, like it wasnt getting fuel or something of that matter and when i was idling my car would make a coughing noise and sputter a little...so i had no idea what it was...but at the same time my battery terminals were all messed up so i thought it was just that...so i fixed em..same thing..i put injector cleaner in..same thing..changed my fuel filter...then i thought my MAF went bad..changed that..same thing..and now when i floor it in 1st gear my car spazzes out..like my tach goes crazy and starts going from top to bottom and just starts flippin out, and my car like turns off and on..it feels like a ground is lose somewhere but i checked them all that i can see and theyre all fine and tight...and also whenever i go over a bump my radio turns off and then back on...idk what the hell is going on..anyone have any ideas?!?! please i need this fixed before the tertech event!!! My next step is my fuel pump but i want to see what u guys think i shud do or if any of this sounds familiar to some of you guys...HELP!!
 
awww man... I'm sorry bro I wish I can help. I'm still in noob-spec. I hope everything works out in time.
 
see how many volts your alternator is putting out, if possible it could be suppling enough voltage at idle but once you start loading the engine and the fuel pump draws more voltage providing more pressure it could 1. Not be getting enough fp to the rail which will cause ****ty\ irradic \ lean condition. 2. Loose wiring harness? is the ecu bolted down secure? Do your symptoms occur at a specific rpm or certain throttle percentage?

Switch batteries with someone elses car, see if it still happens. Thats an easy test that you can check one varible. Next would be borrow \ try a known good alternator (really try to get a voltage reading to determine if your alternator is good or not before you switch alts.)


If there is a huge drain on the electrical system like accessories or something of that nature, well nothing ever likes to function correctly under powered.

I am tipping off that it is electrical and not mechanical because you say your tach goes "crazy" and searches for different RPM. But if it were mechanical i would verify there are no vacumm leaks. Are there any open wire runs? nicked or bare copper showing?

I have a few more ideas, but ill wait for your reply.
 
how are your spark plug wires? are they getting heated and melting off the valve cover or anything? that'll spazz it out too
 
M4nfred - ill check that thanks
suaknee - i kno bro me too!! lol
240sxsickness - your my hero bro..your info was the most helpful, but i rele dont kno exactly what to so do u think it would be possible for me to come by sometime this week and we cud both check it out..that wud be awesome, and plus i could show you exactly whats going on instead of over the internet, i think that will be the best way to fix it, if you could let me do that i would really appreciate it
Dan - Maybe my spark plug wires are just going bad cuz theyre not melting from the valve cover

-Thanks everyone-
 
try some simple things first, try a different battery and if that isnt the issue which i dont think it is. Check to see if you are getting 12v out of the alternator. Check for loose \ cut or bare wires in the harness. If there is any ghetto rigging of any kind check it out, make sure that electrical tape didnt slide off the soderd connection creating a short.... ect.

Do your symptoms occur at a specific rpm or certain throttle percentage?

if you think that some of your problems are due to excessive or a lack of fuel, drive the car until it dose what its doing. Then stop, pull over turn the engine off and check the plugs. You want to do this right after the problem happens, if you wait too long the plug condition changes with your idle and masks the condition. use www.google.com and look on NGK's website about different plug conditions, remember the plug condition then compare yours, and report the result.
 
Yea see thats what im talking about..i really dont know what to look for with all that b/c i dont know what the right way is sopposed to look like..remember i did my swap myself, no certified technician helped me, so i mean, i have some vacuum leaks, i have some hardwiring, and a lot things are ghetto rigged...so seriously i really would appreciate it if we met up and looked this over and fixed this, instead of leaving this all up to me b/c i know i could easily look over something stupid
 
Or have you checked the wire harness running over your right tire? if your real dropped and do even regular dirving that harness could get damaged, check that out! you might just have a mess of wires touching and thats why youre getting all type of **** happening!

hope thats what the problem is. it`ll be easy to fix.
 
jdmbrian said:
Or have you checked the wire harness running over your right tire? if your real dropped and do even regular dirving that harness could get damaged, check that out! you might just have a mess of wires touching and thats why youre getting all type of **** happening!

hope thats what the problem is. it`ll be easy to fix.
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haha o man ive already went down that road...i had to get pretty much my whole wiring harness under the fenderwell saudered back together cuz of that. Thanks though.

Ok well im pretty sure i know what it is now...FUEL PUMP! i think its just going bad...i started hearing a whistling noise from the back of my car whenever im on the gas and i was like ok this has to be it..so now im goin to switch that..but now i need some help on that, i dont want to pull a junk yard one just incase its bad u know..and i would rather just be safe and spend the extra money for a new one, but if i got a 255 would that make it run too rich? on stock injectors and no kind of AFC? well anyways i want to get a Z32TT one b/c i want an upgraded one but not a 255 and i dont want a stock one just b/c thats weak...so what do u guys think i should do? and if some1 has a fuel pump for sale..let me know how much, thanks.
 
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ONE80ESSEX said:
haha o man ive already went down that road...i had to get pretty much my whole wiring harness under the fenderwell saudered back together cuz of that. Thanks though.

Ok well im pretty sure i know what it is now...FUEL PUMP! i think its just going bad...i started hearing a whistling noise from the back of my car whenever im on the gas and i was like ok this has to be it..so now im goin to switch that..but now i need some help on that, i dont want to pull a junk yard one just incase its bad u know..and i would rather just be safe and spend the extra money for a new one, but if i got a 255 would that make it run too rich? on stock injectors and no kind of AFC? well anyways i want to get a Z32TT one b/c i want an upgraded one but not a 255 and i dont want a stock one just b/c thats weak...so what do u guys think i should do? and if some1 has a fuel pump for sale..let me know how much, thanks.
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the problem with high flow pumps is that it will increase the fuel pressure at the rail. A friend of mine put a walbro in is sr s14 and watched the base fp jump from 43psi to 60. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is nessacary if you are going to install a fuel pump on a stock system if you would like to retain the gas milage and performance of the engine. In addition i dont like raising the fuel pressure at all becuase of the extra strain on the injectors, it will reduce the life span of the injectors. If you drop an injector on a boosted engine while on the throttle you will have signifigant engine damage. factory replacement or junkyard fp will work fine if you dont plan on turboing an engine in that car any time soon. find one with low miles though. go to nissan and replace the fuel sock.

fyi a z32 pump can support about 800hp. my s14 fuel pump is good for 14 psi (300whp easy) from my t04e, i dont think the s13 pump is different. I may be mistaken though, i have not researched it thoughly.
 
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240SicknessX said:
the problem with high flow pumps is that it will increase the fuel pressure at the rail. A friend of mine put a walbro in is sr s14 and watched the base fp jump from 43psi to 60. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is nessacary if you are going to install a fuel pump on a stock system if you would like to retain the gas milage and performance of the engine. In addition i dont like raising the fuel pressure at all becuase of the extra strain on the injectors, it will reduce the life span of the injectors. If you drop an injector on a boosted engine while on the throttle you will have signifigant engine damage. factory replacement or junkyard fp will work fine if you dont plan on turboing an engine in that car any time soon. find one with low miles though. go to nissan and replace the fuel sock.

fyi a z32 pump can support about 800hp. my s14 fuel pump is good for 14 psi (300whp easy) from my t04e, i dont think the s13 pump is different. I may be mistaken though, i have not researched it thoughly.
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What about a Z32TT pump? b/c i can get one for 110...but its not brand new, but it works...will that put strain on the injectors?
 
ONE80ESSEX said:
Ok....@ the time of DDay8 i noticed my car was acting a bit wierd...as most of you heard on the track when i would get into high RPMs my car would make a wierd like humming noise and i would lose all power, like it wasnt getting fuel or something of that matter and when i was idling my car would make a coughing noise and sputter a little...so i had no idea what it was...but at the same time my battery terminals were all messed up so i thought it was just that...so i fixed em..same thing..i put injector cleaner in..same thing..changed my fuel filter...then i thought my MAF went bad..changed that..same thing..and now when i floor it in 1st gear my car spazzes out..like my tach goes crazy and starts going from top to bottom and just starts flippin out, and my car like turns off and on..it feels like a ground is lose somewhere but i checked them all that i can see and theyre all fine and tight...and also whenever i go over a bump my radio turns off and then back on...idk what the hell is going on..anyone have any ideas?!?! please i need this fixed before the tertech event!!! My next step is my fuel pump but i want to see what u guys think i shud do or if any of this sounds familiar to some of you guys...HELP!!
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sounds just like what happened to my s12 right before it died....
 
increasing the fuel pressure a few lbs isnt horrible, some times a few lbs of fp increase helps idle larger injectors. But thats a different topic. The ka sr rb factory injectors are designed to have proper fuel atomization at 43.5psi. any more is just more pressure that the pintle has to open aginst. This is part of the reason why FMU's are so bad, they increase fp with boost in specific ratios, ex: 12:1. If you run 7psi of boost at 12:1 then you are running 84 more psi of fp ontop of the 43.5 which gives you a grand total of 127.5 psi of fuel pressure at the rail. Injectors dont open!!!!!

just find a stock pump and be happy as a replacement. Or, get your z32 or walbro high flow, and then turn the pressure down with an aeromotive or similar adjustable fpr.


why do you think its your fuel pump if your tach is still going crazy. Have you checked your coil like uras said? after market msd blaster or simialar coil ?
 
o ok cool thanks....well i dont think my fuel pump is making my tach go crazy but the 1st thing on my mind is the tertech event and with a bad fuel pump i cant drift...but as long as im getting power down and enough fuel i dont rele care about how the tach is acting right now, thats the next step...i dont even know how to check my coil and what to look for, i would not be suprised if theres a short or something lose but i wouldnt know what to look for.
 
you know i never quite found out why exactly my s12 died ...... but that last event i was swapping batteries faster than i was swapping tires
 
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