Recent content by mranlet

Badgerftw.com I wasn't impressed with the D2s (sorry guys), but I haven't driven on any Tanabes.

Flip your brackets if you want to go lower. Eliminating a rear lock collar is OK, but the front will work it's way up or down over time just from steering.

The Badgers are impressive for a sub $1k coilover for sure. The damping is very well matched, which is imperative for eliminating bouncyness and jerkyness. They seem to do best when the shock is slightly preloaded (about .5") and have been tested not only on a shock dyno but also on Sebring's...

Megan Tracks have a far superior damper than the streets, but the spring rates are too much for a light S-chassis. Stances are also good, but for less money you could get several other exceppent coilovers. BadgerWerks are the end-all to entry-level coilovers. Awesome damping and liveable...

In order for the track to be safe for Karting (which is its #1 purpose), it was not desirable to have the risk of damage caused by cars. You heard it here, straight from the source...

XAT Racing does too, but we're in Tampa.

Of you're going to do bodywork, cut away for ease of pulling. If you're trying to pull without paint, don't cut and go slowly. Metal can stretch very well if you know how to work it. I've done probably 2 dozen cars with an Eastwood at the shop and only 2 or 3 have needed paint (my own Legacy...

Like that totally fucked up Power FC problem on that dude's black coupe ;) Fine tune on dyno is the way to go. If there is anything else that is causing mechanical problems, we'll find it.

DGtrials has already been to Gville and is doing a private day to work out the bugs of the location. From my brief interaction with Nick, he seems like a respectful and straight-up guy. I'm the one who gave him the connection to Gainesville on good faith that he or his crew wouldn't try to...

I agree, and that's why having the shortest primary possible in an EL manifold is important. The effect of having a smooth rhythm of exhaust pulses is more significant to spool time than the sheer volume in the primary, but if you can have both, you should.

No on the 4-lug, unless you can find some press-in 4-lug wheel bearing. You'd be better off just picking up some Junkyard 240 uprights and if you want 5-lug, buy the new 5-lug wheel bearings and just bolt them in.

J30 wheel bearings are not modular, a-la they must be pressed out and a new one pressed in. Not something you can do in your garage unless you have an upright press. Local mechanic should be able to do it. Are you saying that you swapped your 4 lug modular uprights for J30 non-modular uprights?

Tubular manifolds are much easier to make equal length. Equal length is important for matching exhause pulse phases and ultimately spooling the turbo. Making casts is terribly expsneive, so ususally tubular manifolds are cheaper than limited production castings. Aside from that, tubular...

RB20 is a waste. With nominally more money and the same amount of work you can go RB25. If you want it to be reliable, just get a good front mount and manual boost controller.

The main reason for doing a log manifold is that you can run an external wastegate. We've been doing externally gated OEM manifolds for some time with awesome results (quicker spool, better heat containment, etc). There is nothing wrong with tubular manifolds if they're built well. Anything...