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jackhammer. most def a jack hammer.lol. best bet is really a air chisel.

looks good. its the same principle as re-wiring your fuel pump, the old crusty,corroded wiring in your stock harness has soo much resistance running through it by now that your coils probably only see 10-11 volts now. re wireing that is going to make sure you get a nice proper voltage to them now.

i have a s14 bracket on a s13 motor.lol

same thing.

ok next thing to try, check under the driver and pass side fenders and make sure the wiring harness's there arent chewed up from the tires rubbing them. you have an electrical short somewhere.

its still possibly to be the o2 sensor. unplug it and disconnect the battery and drain the electrical system and then try it. also what codes does it have stored? this sounds like a hard fault so there should be a fault code stored

since its prob obd 2 i dont know if your beable to eliminate the ckp sensor but heres the diagram for doing it with a sr same principles but im not sure the wiring colors with be the same. but its a start it you wanna check the wiring diagrams for your motor and the earlier ka...

dont think the compressor would be bad, its doing whats its supposed to. high side is hot and low side is cold. its definetly compressing the refrgierant thus causing the heat due to friction on the high side. def has something to do with your blend door,hvac control unit, or blower motor.

does it happen even with a full tank of gas? if not check and make sure your fuel sock hasnt fallen off. it sounds like you have fuel sloshing around causing the pump to suck dry. also what kind of engine is it and car? it could be a bad o2 sensor. it sounds like the idle and light throttle...

the chain wouldnt really be the part id worry about, you have to have a complete package between properly set up head for high rpms, plus a properly balanced and blueprinted bottom end(lightend and knife edge crank def, so your not worry about that rotating mass and oil accumilation on it). but...

the lines on a ka are in the same place as an sr's. but the fittings on a 240sx were they bolt to the sr a/c comp are diff. if you were lucking enough to get the lines still connected to you compressor when you got you swap then all you have to do is take those and you stock lines on the chassis...

the cooler needs to be installed anywere on the low pressure side. plus at low rpms its not that bad, you still have some poweersteering and plus its not a 7500lbpick up truck.lol

i've swapped the actual diff a few times. all you have to do to keep the gearing is pull the pinion out of the j30 and use the s13 crush bushing. oh yeah and make sure you shim it properly and have the proper gear mesh. if not that thing will sound like a jacked up mall crawler in no time

the best thing to do is to get a underdrive pulley for your powersteering pump. cause your prob running into the prob of cavitateing the fluid at high rpm's. you can still upgrade the stock cooler with an aftermarket if you want, but you'll notice more improvement with the pulley than you will...

oh tru. still you might wanna get with aem maybe they can help you trouble shoot the problem if not replace it. they usually stand behind there stuff pretty good

what kind of sensor did you buy. if ots not an aem one it wont work right. thats the only downfall to the uego gauge is you have to use a aem sensor

did they shorten or lengthen the 12ft harness for the sensor? those things are very finicky when you lengthen or shorten them. the aem sensors were calibrated for a specific lenght of wire. any less and the resistance values are less. but it could just be a bad sensor. id call aem and talk with them

your carrier bearing on your driveshaft is prob shot

thats what it was, sry about that i knew it was shorter or longer just couldnt remember which it was

what you need help with? stabbing the distributor, adjusting electrical timing, mechanical timing(timing chains)?