1.5 or 2-way?

illphantasm

illphantasm

FWD Corollas ftw!
Driver
You guys know what I'm talking about. Can I go wrong with either one?

I also heard that Heard 2-ways adversely affect daily driving
(such as in u-turns because of the diff locking), is this true?

I'm hoping to have my new car ready (and keep you fellas in suspense)
by the December event, but I need some help on deciding which
differential would better suit me. Any suggestions?
 
get whatever you want... unless you drive like an asshole daily driving you have nothing to worry about

and the whole thing about 2way in the rain, just make sure you have matching tires on the back and try to keep the psi the same in each otherwise you will feel that bitch even in the dry.. or atleast on the NISMO 2way u do. :bigthumbu
 
if your gonna use the car as a daily id recommed a 1 way or a 1.5... 2way lsds provide full lock during accel and braking... 1 ways are lock on accel but open while braking and 1.5 are partial lock on braking full lock on accel. 2 ways are trickier to control during everyday driving.
 
Thanks Dan and RB for your valued testimonies. Thats the info I was exactly looking for. I'm gonna set my eyes on a 1.5 way.

POLE-POSITION said:
go for the three way.... i think it will pull the ebrake for you too.
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That was of no use.
 
welded is great for drag/drift cars... then again its slightly more complicated for daily driving... you'll take a turn and hear the tires dieing to break loose... too tempting if you ask me. My MA71 comes 2 way stock, and i've allready felt the car slide a bit while down shifting through a turn. Even while coasting the 2 way wants to get the tail out... then again, you gotta remember that over/understeer is a driver induced state... all it takes is practice to get used to. happy sliding man :bigthumbu
 
welded diff sucks for drifting... open diff > welded diff

illphantasm said:
I know welded is the more affordable approach, but I'm gonna buy one out of personal preference.
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yea.. dont go welded.. they are ghey
 
illphantasm said:
Thanks guys. Think I'm gonna go for a 1.5 way on my project, given the input.
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The initial tq is 70ft lbs on my nismo 2way. I accidentally picked up the fluid with a friction modifier in it. I have new fluid that I need to put in there that dose not have a friction modifier in it. I am going to switch the fluid and see how much that changes the lock up characteristics. I was used to driving a vlsd which has a soft lockup so there was not much of a change in how I had to drive after i installed the 2way. I like that my diff has a low initial tq for a 2way, it allows the car to turn in easier. If i were to get a 1.5 way I would look for something with an initial tq around 115. This would still allow me to turn in because of the partial locking on decel.

Although its very insignificant, if I am going fast around a corner but driving like a grandma and just let the car do what it wants to hoping the front wheels just turn it will have a slight push \ understeer. Mainly this is attributed to the 225-245 stagger that I like to run, but its also part of having a 2way. If im driving proactively i have no problems at all setting the car in a slip angle and going around the turn. Keep in mind that alot of road race cars run spools (welded), they tune their suspension to compensate for any "push" that the locked diff gives them, so tune your suspension for your diff if you have any adverse effects.

Maybe I have a super loose diff and run stupid grip, but I have absolutely no problems keeping my car under control in the rain. Even with bald ass tires, just use your head while you are driving, Dont be a total Idiot, and take into consideration road camber changes in intersections. If you have any unexpected encounters, just countersteer gas and go with it.

ProjectRB26DETT said:
if your gonna use the car as a daily id recommed a 1 way or a 1.5... 2way lsds provide full lock during accel and braking... 1 ways are lock on accel but open while braking and 1.5 are partial lock on braking full lock on accel. 2 ways are trickier to control during everyday driving.
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a vlsd is 1 way, vlsd sucks.

Daily driving is fine with a 2way. You will deal with it after you have drifted on it, It is so amazing compared to a v-open diff.
 
240sicknessx said:
"The initial tq is... ...go with it."
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Thanks for the very enlightening post, 240Sickness. That being said, I think I'll look up the inital torque on Kaaz and Cusco units.

240sicknessx said:
You will deal with [the 2-way] after you have drifted on it...
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Deal with it how so, bro?
 
illphantasm said:
Thanks for the very enlightening post, 240Sickness. That being said, I think I'll look up the inital torque on Kaaz and Cusco units.


Deal with it how so, bro?
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If you get any clutch chatter, The vibration and force being sent through the drive train makes the diff lock and unlock the plates, little clunk clunks. No big deal. So what you cherp a tire around a u turn or while your are parking your car. So you wont be able to push your car except in a strait line, locked diff keeps the tires locked and you cant push the car by yourself while trying to turn it. At low speeds the diff will clunk, its just the clutch plates engaging and disengaging. You should change your diff fluid after every event, if you drive the car hard on the street with no events 3000 miles. Keeping the fluid clean will prolong the life of the diff and keep the characteristics consistent. I notice after my oil started getting dirty the diff was getting softer and such. In the end all of it is no big deal, just do it.

FYI, You can tailor your driving to any kind of diff when you are starting out. Some start with a welded diff and never drifted on an open diff. Their driving styles are different from someone who started on an open diff. I went from an open>vlsd>2way. I have a particular driving style and am comfortable with the way the car moves with a loose or soft diff compared to a super tight diff or a welded unit.
 
240SicknessX said:
If you get any clutch chatter, The vibration and force being sent through the drive train makes the diff lock and unlock the plates, little clunk clunks. No big deal. So what you cherp a tire around a u turn or while your are parking your car. So you wont be able to push your car except in a strait line, locked diff keeps the tires locked and you cant push the car by yourself while trying to turn it. At low speeds the diff will clunk, its just the clutch plates engaging and disengaging. You should change your diff fluid after every event, if you drive the car hard on the street with no events 3000 miles. Keeping the fluid clean will prolong the life of the diff and keep the characteristics consistent. I notice after my oil started getting dirty the diff was getting softer and such. In the end all of it is no big deal, just do it.

FYI, You can tailor your driving to any kind of diff when you are starting out. Some start with a welded diff and never drifted on an open diff. Their driving styles are different from someone who started on an open diff. I went from an open>vlsd>2way. I have a particular driving style and am comfortable with the way the car moves with a loose or soft diff compared to a super tight diff or a welded unit.
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Understood. Since I'm more of a casual enthusiast (if such a thing could exist, humor me), I think I'd like the 1.5 way. Therefore, I'll shoot for that. :bigthumbu I'm big on making my vehicle both comfy enough to drive yet aggressive enough for the track, so I think I'll draw the line there. Thanks so much, man --- very valuable info there.
 
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