break in./ help.

miami-200sx

*Reinstated drifter*
Driver
ok my newb question of the week.,

i just got an ACT stage 2 clutch kit., and they say to brake it in at 500 miles.

what da hell is that?> lol
 
meaning u cant haul a** for 500 miles... just ride slow and easy and dont shift fast or pop the clutch just nice and steady lol
 
dont burn the clutch doing stupid burn outs and dont do stupid clutch kicks for 500 miles... i hauled *** with mine 20miles after i installed it and never had a problem
 
break in period means dont put alot of load on it, dont slip the clutch unnessacary, no hard shifting, go easy.
 
jdm ae86t said:
Well, when I got my new clutch, I ran it hard all the time, and it was fine.

blah blah how much power were you making? from what i have gatherd, if you dont break in your clutch properly (allowing the mating surfaces of the disc flywheel and pressure plate to resurface and wear properly during your break in procedure the clutch wont hold as much tq. Not to mention premature wear of the clutch slipping before the surfaces have aquired the same surface patturn.

its kinda similar to replacing\resurfacing your rotors and keeping your worn brake pads. the existing brake pads have surface grooves in them from the previous rotor creating high and low spots. When your brake pedal is depressed and you try to stop on the new rotors with the old pads, the whole brake pad surface area is not touching the rotor and wont stop the car to its full potential. If you dont wear your pressureplate, flywheel and clutch \ break your new clutch assembly in, the same thing can happen. Any high and low spots can wear into your friction componets more then you want "prematurly". These imperfections arent noticable on low power vehicals because the clutch was engineered to hold well over factory tq spec, but when you start making 200, 300 and 400% over factory tq spec the last thing you want is your power being lost in your clutch slipping.

this wasnt directed to you jdm ae86t, but a few people that i have spoken to recently belive that a brake in procedure is not nessacary, or unwarrented.

lets here what other people have to say about the topic, remember i drive and automatic so all of this clutch stuff is foreign, maybe im overlooking something.
 
my buddy got a spec clutch. at least i think thats what it is. anyways hes pushin 500whp. and never broke in his clutch... still strong. its prob been a couple 1000 miles since he put it in to. but if it were me id break it in and take no chances
 
truejdm said:
my buddy got a spec clutch. at least i think thats what it is. anyways hes pushin 500whp. and never broke in his clutch... still strong. its prob been a couple 1000 miles since he put it in to. but if it were me id break it in and take no chances

what clutch is he using.... and hows the street drivability? have anything to compare it to?

my uncle had a 518whp camaro, when he first installed his clutch drove it for about 20 miles and got on it, the clutch slipped like mad. 400 miles later after "breaking it in" it was the tires that were spinning, not the clutch.
 
i was cool and didnt let my clutch brek in befor evn 50miles and went to the races and tried to race my friend and found myself pulling my car home from 27 at 4 am! giv it 250 miles at least and yull b good,the break in period is vital so i hope u drive ez
 
240SicknessX said:
blah blah how much power were you making? from what i have gatherd, if you dont break in your clutch properly (allowing the mating surfaces of the disc flywheel and pressure plate to resurface and wear properly during your break in procedure the clutch wont hold as much tq. Not to mention premature wear of the clutch slipping before the surfaces have aquired the same surface patturn.

its kinda similar to replacing\resurfacing your rotors and keeping your worn brake pads. the existing brake pads have surface grooves in them from the previous rotor creating high and low spots. When your brake pedal is depressed and you try to stop on the new rotors with the old pads, the whole brake pad surface area is not touching the rotor and wont stop the car to its full potential. If you dont wear your pressureplate, flywheel and clutch \ break your new clutch assembly in, the same thing can happen. Any high and low spots can wear into your friction componets more then you want "prematurly". These imperfections arent noticable on low power vehicals because the clutch was engineered to hold well over factory tq spec, but when you start making 200, 300 and 400% over factory tq spec the last thing you want is your power being lost in your clutch slipping.

this wasnt directed to you jdm ae86t, but a few people that i have spoken to recently belive that a brake in procedure is not nessacary, or unwarrented.

lets here what other people have to say about the topic, remember i drive and automatic so all of this clutch stuff is foreign, maybe im overlooking something.

Are you making fun of me? I understand. Just cuz I make 70 hp, I get ragged on. lol. it's cool man. Maybe you are right.
 
jdm ae86t said:
Are you making fun of me? I understand. Just cuz I make 70 hp, I get ragged on. lol. it's cool man. Maybe you are right.
hes just trying to say that clutch does not suit u.I belive mor lika stock one will do u.with a high perf clutch yur jus gonna jerk around n yur car and if yur lucky chirp 3rd,unless u have around 200hp at least :cool:
 
jdm ae86t said:
Are you making fun of me? I understand. Just cuz I make 70 hp, I get ragged on. lol. it's cool man. Maybe you are right.

im just saying, lots of factory clutches on factory hp vehicals can hold well over the tq of the engine so the break in process isnt as crucial as someone who is going to use the full potential of the clutch. To someone who is going to use the full potential of the clutch it would be more pertinant to do a proper break in preventing clutch slip. :)
 
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