Help With Ka Swap!!!!

Can any1 provide me with a sort-of guide to doing a KA to KA swap (both dohc), i need all the details (parts, tools, steps, tips) i would really appreciate the help
 
pull transmission out too. swap transmissions on the ground, not in the car.

need cherry picker, new fuel lines, radiator coolant, new engine and transmission fluids, drain the transmission before you take out the drive shaft so you dont spill transmission fluid everywhere. I dont know how dan did it exactly, but unplugg the harness from the ecu and pass it though the firewall, dont disconnect every harness item that is on the engine especially if it is an origional factory nissan install with all the emissions and service crapz on there. If you have the smaller jack stands make sure they are 3-4 clicks up if you mount them at the front subframe, if you have the large truck\van jack stands then just get the subframe ontop of them will put the car high enough. drain fluids, engine oil, transmission fluid, ps fluid and radiator coolant. get some pb blaster or wd40 for misc nuts\bolts.

maybe push the shell out of the garage and pressure wash it\ degrease it so its clean. Maybe clean the new engine before it goes in?

have one person under the car doing stuff, exhaust, drive shaft, transmission mount, engine mounts, draining fluids ect. While the other person up top undo the fuel lines, brake booster line, ps lines, radiator hoses and wiring harnes.

Have refreshments ready where you are working, dont stop work washing your hands going inside to get a drink. keep the stuff outside and get the cups greasy, short breaks. Publix sweetened ice tea is nice. or water.

Dan and I pulled his engine out to replace the TO bearing and had it back togeather in driving condition in 5 hours total, 2 ppl, in the garage, on the floor, no air tools. Just do it.

Have cheater bars of all different shapes and sizes. !

new oil filter, transmission fluid.

blah
 
as long as theyre both OBD1 or both OBD2, its cake, but if you have a S13 and your puttin a 96 or up KA then youll have to swap intake mani's and theres sometihng you have to do with the distributor, i cant remember right now
 
if hes putting an obd2 motor in an obd1 harness he needs to put the obd1 distributor on the obd2 motor. Also no you dont need to swap intake manifold's. Are you referring to the tps and the iac? if so, that can be changed.
 
is there any possiblities any of you guys will help out with my swap when i get the motor (Will provide food refreshments and gass money as long as you dont live in friggin orlando and $hit) i could use the help im doing all my work alone so far
 
SileightyBoi said:
...this is what i'd do witha ka....hit it with a sledge hammer n go sr n nevr lookbak

YAY!

Tools:
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, Maybe 21mm
Get each of those in short and deep sockets and combo wrenches
Several different length extensions
Screwdrivers Flat and Phillips
Pliers, Channel Locks, Vise Grips, Needle Nose Pliers...
Breaker and Pry Bars
Cherry Picker
2 Jack Stands
Jack or 2 Hydro not scissor

Swap:
Remove hood
Jack up from of car
---- I suggest Jack stands to be placed on the subframe were the FLCAs meet the Subframe
Drain: Motor, Trans, Power Steering and Coolant
Disconnect and Remove Battery
Disconnect ECU and pass Harness through Fire wall to engine compartment
Pull out Drive Shaft
----Careful more fluid will leak out
Put a jack under the tranny and pull the tranny mount and unbolt the 2 Motor mounts from the Subframe
---- 2 14mm nuts need and extension
Remove the 2 14mm that hold on the Clutch Slave Cylinder from the Trans
Disconnect the Down Pipe from the Header
---- Use plenty of WD 40 or Equivalent
Remove Fan shroud, Clutch Fan, E Fan and Radiator
Disconnect High Presure and Return Power Steering Lines
Disconnect and other misc wires that goto the motor
Disconnect Fuel Lines
Disconnect Trhottle Cable and Cruise Control if you have it
Hook Up a chain To the motor or Seat Belt...
Attach Cherry Picker
----Jack Slowly
----Lower the Jack hold up the trans slowly

BAM MOTOR IS OUT

BBe sure to raise the motor slowly so you dont yank anything out while lifting
 
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The downpipe to headers are 14mm and just for the record, you don't have to remove the clutch fan.. and you have to take off the shifter if you are taking the engine + transmission out together.. but everything else is good to go with z4ks post!!

Also you have to make sure that you disconnect the harness plugs from the chasis plugs by the fuse box and there is a ground wire underneath the fuse box on the passenger side and about 6 or 8 harness plugs you have to disconnect that go from the engine harness too the chasis harness.

and don't forget to undo the negative battery terminal from the intake manifold or else you will be in trouble.
 
Dont forget the heater hoses. Plus remove EGR while your at it. If you look on Ebay they have EGR block off plates for like 9$? I have one and it looks good + gives u more room back there.

Also while your at it you should look into the steel braided clutch line. It goes from your Clutch MC to your Slave MC. It by-passes the dreaded Dampner box that is notoriously known for trapping air and making life impossible to bleed. Plus the pressure on the pedal is great. :bigthumbu
 
I have my hands full with my car right now man. Im still putting it all back together and just got the tranny up... wee.... :)

But, when do u plan on doing this? If im done with this by the time you start i can give u a hand. if its a dohc to dohc swap given u have all the parts ready it shouldnt take any longer then a couple of hours.
 
im doing the same thing here prob tommorrow or thurs..... its not that hard...ill be doing it alone so it might take me a little longer..... ill let you know....
 
well hopefully within the next two to three weeks im still looking for a suitable motor donor, you guys should be done by then ill post any updates...........................Thanks rob give me a call
 
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