Help!

Kenrik

Kenrik

Driver
Ok so first off I'm always very careful about my cooling system.. I check the level several times a week.

Anyway today I was a little late getting ready for work so I did not as I usually do warm the car up before I drove it, insted I keep the RPMs low and stayed out of boot as much as possible. When I was almost to work I gave it a little gas and did hit boost, but only about 50% throttle. When I got to work because I was late insted of giving it the 2min I normally do to cool off I shut the car off after only 30sec or so, and when I did I hear the sound of steam from my (nismo) radiator cap... ahh fuck! it did not seem to be very much steam and after about 10sec it stopped.

So when I got out of work the first thing I did was check the coolant level, and yeah you could not see any in the Koyo.. I squeezed the lower coolant hose and I did feel some water in there but I could also feel there was Air, SOOOOOO I had someone bring me water and it took about 1Gal to fill the system back up.. After starting the car and the water pump mixing the coolant that was still in the engine with the new water. The water turned a transparent Brownish color, kind of like the color of Tea. :mad: There is no oil in the coolant and the oil looks perfect.. The engine still runs great.

WTF??? what's the brown? just crud left over in the engine from before?

Where did that 1 Gal of water go???


Ehh... WTF?
 
I would bank on the turbo seals are a little whooped up. Exhuast is totally clear while you first start it up and its ideling? Is your super cool overflow filling up?
 
brown color is old rust. I wouldnt like that loose stuff flyin around. I would take the radiator hoses off and run the hose from the top port of the radiator so it drains out the bottom, getting any loose stuff out. I dont know if water pressure alone will open the against the thermostat spring. I would take the thermostat out and run water through the engine for a little bit. Then make sure you keep like 20% coolant in there with your 80% water for max cooling efficiency.

once you refill everything, start the car and let it run in place and warm up until you see circulation. Check for air bubbles. A more through test would be to do a leak down test on the compression stroke of each cylinder with as much pressure as your little air compressor will push out. Check for coolant leaks.

Keep an eye on your oil level too. Running at high rpms oil will slip past the rings and the valves eventually, I almost loose 1\4 quart after a serious 1000 mile beating.

Read and properly do a leak down test. Figure out if anything else you dont want to know.
 
Yeah no smoke from the exhaust, up untill now I have had only minimal issues with my cooling system..

BTW where does the temp gauge get it's signal from? I had always thought it was from the sender on the lower Radiator hose but that is where my A pillar gauge is hooked up.. and when it overheated today my dash gauge went all the way to H ... but WTF? does that gauge read from the block? I thought the one on the block was for the ECU.
 
it should read on the coolant port leaving the engine, so it has actual engine coolant temprature. Not the coolant temprature that is going into the engine...........

Dood if your shit went to hot i would be scared. I was running around with a shitty thermostat and the car was bogging all over the place because of the hot temps the ecu was runnin the thing madd rich. Well i recorded from a snap on scanner 218 degrees and the temp gauge did not move from "operating temprature".
 
240SicknessX said:
it should read on the coolant port leaving the engine, so it has actual engine coolant temprature. Not the coolant temprature that is going into the engine...........
Click to expand...

Yeah and it's not hooked up... My A Pillar gauge uses that sender spot

So WTF how did the dash gauge know it was overheating??

Again the car still runs like it did before...
 
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down there above the thermostat housing you should have have a red connector for the coolant temp sensor that goes to ecu, then the one on the right is for the cluster. You have an aftermarket water temp gauge?
 
240SicknessX said:
down there above the thermostat housing you should have have a red connector for the coolant temp sensor that goes to ecu, then the one on the right is for the cluster. You have an aftermarket water temp gauge?
Click to expand...

Yes I have an aftermarket, Autometer Electric... it was working but then it stopped so I bought a Mechanical guage and am waiting for it to come in th mail.

The brown is def just old coolant/silt/rust it did not look that nasty when I drained it.
 
Do you have the coolant sensor that goes to the ecu in the same place ?

You disconnected the sensor that goes to the cluster and you put your autocraptastic electric gauge? blah, Tell me where your cluster sensor, ecu sensor, and your after market sensors are.

are you sure that sound was coming from your radiator cap, not a coolant line going to the turbo pissing on your hot stuff over there and makin noises.?
 
Noise was from the Radiator cap... sounded like a low tea kettle... :(

I just got back from driving it, I went to the autoparts store to get water wetter, The car fells great turbo sounds like it always does... did not steam/overheat when I parked it at the store or at home. When it cools I'm going to check the coolant level and add the water wetter if everything looks good.

Ehh, My best guess is my turbo must have a really small leak in the seals and it burns water slowly? Hmm.. The Turbo had 0 Shaft play when I installed it No oil in the compressor housing/blades (it was nice and silver) and if you would spin it it would just keep spinning on it's own.. seemed like it was in perfect condition..
 
When you check for shaft play you are measuring the clearance in the bearings, not seal condition.

If problems continue then do a leak down test because you overheated it.
 
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