I searched for this and couldnt find anything, rb20 VS SR20

What engine is best bang for your buck?(mpg, sound,labor)

  • SR20DET Redtop

    Votes: 14 38.9%
  • RB20DET

    Votes: 6 16.7%
  • Other

    Votes: 16 44.4%

  • Total voters
    36
  • Poll closed .
I dont wanna turbo my KA, i dunno id rather have an sr. I already talked to my brother he said if i do an sr swap he can help me since he did his, so i guess ima have to go sr20. All those other suggestions, they sound awesome, but i would do it if it wasnt my daily. And im a big ls1 (or chevy in general) guy, but ls1 will probably kill me with labor oh yea and me driving it str8 into a wall lol.
 
why compare the 2jz to a 2.6 liter? if you want to talk about 3.0 dohc nissan produced a 3.0 SOHC and the 2.5 DOHC is pretty much bolt on... Then that 3.0 dohc-t has more power and TQ than that of a 2jz with stock parts.

Now for this discussion I say KA-t also, they can be had a dime a dozen and if you blow one up, buy another for a few hundred and do it again... try doing that with an SR
 
Hmmmm, i dunno, how much can i boost with the stock ka. Im afraid ill bend a rod. What about a c18det? Im looking for vids of it but barely find any. But it doesnt even brin 200hp so i think id rather go ka-t. Ok i shall view some vids of the ka-t. Thanks for everyones opinion. I just wanna have a reliable, good ,car with power when i need it and the feeling of the turbo, when u just step on it and it puts u in ur seat, oh yea and it would be nice to do some flamed backfires, my ka right does some nice ones with the current 3' exhaust.

I gotta admit those videos are very promising. Once i got that cash ill sum everything up and get ready to go. I think my ka is a good plant, 105 k miles, first owner was an old guy(im second owner) not much stress on that motor. Although i have this question, when im stopped and it is idling for about i dunno 2 min- 5 min and then accelerate a ball of white smoke comes out then it doesnt smoke at all anymore. Any ideas? Car runs good as fuh but, it just bothers me when it does that, im picky.
 
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hmmmmm, how much hp can i do reliably. Cuz i know an sr can do 220-270 reliably. But can i do like 220 or 250 with stock engine reliably?(with my ka)
 
stock engine you can get 250 with injectors and a tuned ECU... You can get around 220 with stock injectors and ecu with safc
 
so much stupidy in this thread! people spit info on here like they know all!

well im the instructor on the magic school box so all ya stfu!!!

first- ITHAjokia says: why compare the 2jz to a 2.6 liter? if you want to talk about 3.0 dohc nissan produced a 3.0 SOHC and the 2.5 DOHC is pretty much bolt on... Then that 3.0 dohc-t has more power and TQ than that of a 2jz with stock parts.

the rb30 never came dohc it was sohc, so its not factor, the rb25or rb26 doesnt bolt on, it takes serious machine work for that to happen.! and still in stock form the 2jzgte would make more power! so know ur facts

2nd- liljon285- u should be e-smacked for starting uch a dumb thread search>u. the ka dose have long rods, but in stock form u will blow the rings/piston ring lands before the rod! if u wanna comparefor a motor setup- first look at ur budget, then time u have, and last power out put! once u determine this then choose the setup. all the motors u listed can make high horse power out puts, but it all comes down to money, and time!

hate away!
 
lmao agreed. but ill pass. And i dunno, im afraid my high mileaged ka wont take it, especially with my noob style driving.

Thats the problem, im looking for reliability, easy stuff, and no headaches. I did search and all i find is dam arguements on which one is better. But theyre all arguements on which makes more power. If it makes anyone any happier ill do w.e happens. I could always get an sr and blow the shit out of my ka....thats always fun!
 
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bro ive done sr, kat and now rb26 all 3 good power motors. regurless what u here ka-t setup need tobe done right(tunes/builds) its a motor that in stock form is na! adding a turbo is pushing the motor where it wasnt designed for. it will cost the same to build a ka or do a stock sr swap(give or take here and there) so the decision is on u(owner) same thing as ca18. rb20 will run the same. rb 25-26 or jz seris motor get pricey so save up. the ka motor yes is already in ur car, but todo it correct will cost almost asmuch as a sr swap maybe more or less. so its ur choice, a poll here wont help u! do reseach its everywhere and decied! post pics of the build!

hate away!
 
YES!!!! THANK YOU!
THAT is a good response! Thats what i was thinking a sr is already turbo, not much tunning and headaches to it. And again it comes turbo so it should be reliable. My brother says a red top is cake and shouldnt be too hard. Ima finish up my truck so i can have something to drive while i do the swap and sr red top will be going in. Now....what to do with my current ka lol.
 
YES!!!! THANK YOU!
THAT is a good response! Thats what i was thinking a sr is already turbo, not much tunning and headaches to it. And again it comes turbo so it should be reliable. My brother says a red top is cake and shouldnt be too hard. Ima finish up my truck so i can have something to drive while i do the swap and sr red top will be going in. Now....what to do with my current ka lol.

u say u dont want headaches....then buy a skyline....lmao.......problems happen dude even wen u ride stock u might run into problems so the best thing is to jus do research....
 
i know trust me i been through many headaches, but i dont want the headaches that i get stuck and cant fix it. EVERY car has its problems, and i am blessed my car hasnt given me much, but i mean i wanna drive it without having to worry. Like if i wanna drive to orlando, i wanna know i can make it up their wit the engine not overheating and running good. You get me? And the only reason i wanted an RB is for the sound, i love the way they sound, but ive realized with my current exhaust on a sr20 will sound nice enough. Nobody has tried me as it is now lmao.
 
http://users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm

I dont see any quote "serious machining" there mang... Only machining he had done was the intake and that was preference not a MUST do kind of thing...

So maybe YOU should learn what your talking about before you speak.


bro u have to machine for the tensioner and idler, also belt guides! wow such a noob! and ur still trying to compare a oem factory motor to one u have to "custom make" bro dont type here anymore ur not helping lol!
 
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Why put an engine in your car that was never even sold in the US??? You are just making headaches for yourself later on. The SR and the RB arent even in production anymore, ANYWHERE in the world. If only between those two, I would vote SR because why would you want the same exact displacement with an extra 300lbs of crap???

6cylinders for only 2 liters?? kinda getting the short end of the stick there.

If you only want revs and sound the RB is better, but remember, it's a car, meaning shit will break and when it comes time to get RB parts..... have fun. At least we had some cars in the US with FWD SR20.

I voted OTHER, and I'm thinking VQ30 from maxima, or VQ35. Both can be had pretty cheap, put a prebuilt megasquirt kit on, and go have your HP plus TQ too!! YAYYYY
 
Wow. That has to be the dumbest thing ive ever heard.

Based on what that there is 1500hp 2j's? Who cares? Theres plenty of nissan motors that do that.

Such a biased response. Whats your opinion based on?

I didnt know the 4ac was better then a single cam ka.

never seen a 1500hp nissan...not doubting it...just show me proof...

from personal experience yes.... the 4ac is waaaayyyy more reliable than a sohc ka (has driven over 3000 miles on 1 and a half quarts of used oil)...and if ur comparing the performance of the two...that is ridiculous...theres 4ag's for that comparison ....or even in that time 3S... ;)

LOL you sound like a commercial. Call Toyota and try to find 20 valve springs and retainers. Cause m4nfred looked forever and Toyota NLA them. He had to buy upgraded ones because Toyota doesn't carry them anymore. In fact i think he said they had them they just had no way of getting them to him. I laughed.

nonsense....they were valvespring seats....pretty small part, i don't blame them...they're just employees of the part's department ....not really car people, and that was for a 20v, never was in the states....and i still found them after the springs and retainers i bought didn't come with the seats. Where there's a will there's a way...

http://users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm

I dont see any quote "serious machining" there mang... Only machining he had done was the intake and that was preference not a MUST do kind of thing...

So maybe YOU should learn what your talking about before you speak.

IDK If you caught glimpse of the cost on the bottom.....looks pretty stupid and if u can find someone dumb enough to rie around in one of these ....ill put 10 bux an American 2j will shit on it...4 sure...no offense to rb guys (seriously)

well here's the price list on this posted by YOU

RB25 engine $1200 (Normally aspirated)

Autronic ECU $1800
Forged pistons $1500
RB30 Turbo oil pump $550
Bearings $200
Valve springs $438
TO4E Turbo $1200
Waste gate $825
Platinum spark plugs $80
RB20 Turbo exhaust manifold $100
Exhaust manifold gasket $32
Head gasket $70
Timing belt $30
Rod Bolts and Nuts $90
EA Falcon coils $250
Coil connectors $45
Plug leads $45
Thermostat $40
Rear main seal $20
Water pump $100
Acid bath block $40
Welch plugs $20
Speedi sleeves for front and rear seals $92
Oil, oil filter and coolant $75
Exhaust manifold studs $17
Dyno work $800

best part is...if take a few seconds to look at the actual trash you need, you'll find out...your prroooobably going to have to pay at LEAST twice as much for like half of em... errrr...bad idea imho

Why put an engine in your car that was never even sold in the US??? You are just making headaches for yourself later on. The SR and the RB arent even in production anymore, ANYWHERE in the world. If only between those two, I would vote SR because why would you want the same exact displacement with an extra 300lbs of crap???

6cylinders for only 2 liters?? kinda getting the short end of the stick there.

If you only want revs and sound the RB is better, but remember, it's a car, meaning shit will break and when it comes time to get RB parts..... have fun. At least we had some cars in the US with FWD SR20.

I voted OTHER, and I'm thinking VQ30 from maxima, or VQ35. Both can be had pretty cheap, put a prebuilt megasquirt kit on, and go have your HP plus TQ too!! YAYYYY

Definitely the best advice on here imo.....and if u wanna keep it simple ,save gas:ugh:, and sell it and MAKE money....our best bet is to sell it now...and get a yaris
 
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I personally have driven an SR20 Redtop and I own an RB20 swapped 240. I would never trade my motor for the world unless of course it was being traded for a 25,26 or LS1. The RB20 has more toque than the SR20 but is also heavier. In order for an SR20 to run with the stock RB20 they need to turn up their boost, thats when you hear KAPOTIE! As far as gas milage I'm sure the SR gets way better gas milage but IMO they sound like BUTT the RB sounds like pure sex!

Just my 2 cents.....if you have the money go LS1 if not RB is the way to go, BTW I daily my RB20 if that means anything.


Correction: SR20DET has more torque than the RB20, but the RB20 makes more power.

Which makes complete sense because the RB is short stroke high rev, SR20 has both bigger bore and much longer stroke than RB20.

RB is absolutely more of a race motor, but the 20 is really a waste of 6 iron holes, since Nissan built them all the way up to 2.8L
 
I own a RB20 and IMO it feels like it has WAY more torque then the SR20 maybe not on paper but performing wise. I love my RB but like you said parts are extremely hard to come by. the only motor I would trade for the RB is a VQ35 or LS1.
 
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