my first honing job

kakapoopie

Spectator
Welll then this fine evening i had some help from a freind and started to hone my cylinders. for some reason this isnt looking much like the pics in the manual. any tips? how many reps per cylinder? should i put more tension on the spring? faster? slower speed better? we were going sort of slow.

also misc pics of conrod bearings and that nasty #4 piston. (cylinder wall didnt look much better).

#1
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#2
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#3
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#4
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nasty rings
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2146817S5003633.jpg
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2146820S5003650.jpg
 
at first when i glanced at the title for a second i thought it said "my first hand job"

then when i realized what it really was, i was relieved, but yet dissapointed.

:laugh:
 
what kind of hone are you using? Id say you need something with more pressure. make sure you keep it centered and go strait up and down. Make sure you are using wd40 and be sure everything is wet. spend about 5-6 mins on each cylinder.

On a cylinder with a 3inch bore, and a 3inch stroke. the hone will make 1 single rotation to produce the 45 degree angle (which is what you are shooting for). so from the top of the deck to the bottom of the sleeve have your hone making about one or a little more then one rotation. Thats the drill speed to arm ratio you are shooting for.

The pictures that you see are machine honed cylinder walls, which is a much more aggressive hone. Those pics are used to show you the direction of the cross hatches. If you have the cross hatch marks, and the walls are not polished then your good.

Im on a shitty monitor so i cant see those pictures well enough to see if your doing it right.
 
thnx alot for the info i think ill have another go at it soon...

what do you think about the bearings? the guys on mr2oc.com were saying they look really shitty and to take the block to the machine shop blah blah....but i dont have infinite funds here im already in over my head
 
Do it yourself man theres always peopl here to help and you'll feel alot better doin it yourself well atleast i do id give you a hand but im in TN and these guys pretty much explained it very well already just post up pics of your next attempt...and if you have the engine all taken apart replace the bearings there not expensive and easy to change if it were me id change em all out for frash ones JMO...
 
yea if someone (4age corolla people?) in the kendall area could come help me with this stuff thatd be awesome..
 
dude! you're rebuilding your motor? i'm doing a head gasket and t/b on my corolla and later i'm rebuilding the blue mr2 (#2) motor, using cookies n creme mr2's motor (#3) and from then maybe even blackberry (mr2 #1) and don't even ask me why i have 3 mr2s....good luck and let me know how it goes!
 
Yea those bearings look pretty shitty, enough to where anyone would advise you to micropolish the crank shaft journals. There should be some marking indications on the bottom of the block indicating which size main bearings it uses. grade\size 1,2,3,4. On the KA its on the oil pan gasket surface. It will be stamped into the block someplace. Rod bearings are a little more tricky. nissan bearings are numberd to tell you the thickness. along with GM.

When its all said and done and you have the new bearings use some plastigauge as secondary insurace to double check the oil clearance.

Have someone give you a hand figuring out what bearings to purchase. NUMBER EVERYTHING.!!!! Pistons are directional, rods are directional, rod caps are directional. Do not mis match rod caps with different rods. Make sure the pistons that came out of that cylinder go back into that cylinder so your cylinder to wall clearances are correct.

There should never be any metal to metal contact on bearing surfaces. But you defiantly had metal to metal contact.

If you can take your finger nail and feel grooves on the crank journals that is a definite sign that your crankshaft is scared. It will have to be ground undersized and used oversize bearings. Not good for making power....... factory rebuild and a little more boost then okay........ If your gonna put a mans turbo on it, its life expectancy will be questionable.

fsm will have the locations of where the bearing sizes are stamped. main and rod
 
yea i think the bearing #s are stamped on a bottom corner of the block...i have to get that plastiguage stuff going...right now i have the pistons/ rods/ rodcaps /bolts all laid out in order on the floor...its ok to write with sharpie on those?

thnx for the help

stlthfightr- i dont know how the hell i got here, but im here :p good luck with your operations too
 
yea yea yea, shoot some brake clean on a rag, wipe off the oil on the rod and cap where you want to write, and mark it up. write big and clear.
 
same shit happened to my sr.. now im building it up BIGTIME.. i had to buy a new crank cuz the journal got roughed up bad.. you can use a dial caliper guage to measure the journals.. the fsm has the right measurement
 
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