pulley install?

sup guys i just bought an ASP pulley from Burukan in the for sale section(thanks bro!!!)

3 questions.

1. any1 have suggestions/ write ups on changing the pulley? (mostly concerned about the timing and such)

2. for those who have done this mod. exactly what size belts do i need ?
i have heard that the AC belt is the same but the others change.

3. Ive heard to change the front main seal also. so ill do this also but any helpful hints or write ups on this??? anything else i should do while im down there>?

Thanks again SFLDRIFTERS you guys have always been sooooo helpful.... :D
 
the asp aluminum under drive pulley installation is pretty strait forward.

The new smaller belt lenghts are at www.aspracing.com write down the part number then take it to advanced auto or w\e.

Some people think its a good idea to change the front main seal while you have the crank pulley off. This is unnecessary, If your front main seal is not leaking then I would not worry about it, because its not that big of a deal to replace if it dose start to leak. Just yank the old pulley off and toss this one on, you will need a 1 1\16th socket to do this.

Tip, if you have the mechanical fan shroud still in place, you probably will want to take that out of there so you have better access to the pulley. I usually take the fan off with a ratcheting 10mm wrench and lift the radiator, fan shroud and the fan out in one piece. But im crazy.

The pulley only goes on one way, there is a keyway on the crank shaft that the pulley aligns on.

Your biggest challenge will be removing the factory pulley. Dont throw it away, i might want it. For being technically correct I will tell you to use a puller, but a mechanic in the field usually finds more efficient ways of doing things.
 
240SicknessX said:
Some people think its a good idea to change the front main seal while you have the crank pulley off. This is unnecessary, If your front main seal is not leaking then I would not worry about it,.


NEGATIVE!!! I tried to be cheap because my seal wasnt leaking but for some reason it started leaking after i put the pully in besides why not do thing right the 1st time to avoid having to fix it later :bigthumbu ;)
 
PlatanoDrifter said:
NEGATIVE!!! I tried to be cheap because my seal wasnt leaking but for some reason it started leaking after i put the pully in besides why not do thing right the 1st time to avoid having to fix it later :bigthumbu ;)


If it was working before you took it off, then you installed something and it broke. I dont think its biological clock stopped ticking and it decided to die right after you changed your pulley on it own.

Be careful when you reinstall the under drive pulley if you dont have it seated evenly in the front main seal you can tear it or disrupt its seat in the timing cover. You can do this by pushing the pulley on with your hands as far as it will go then tighten the crank bolt with a ratchet, if you have an impact you can use that to tighten it after you have it tight with the ratchet, or break out the FSM and use your freshly calibrated torque wrench to ensure correct fastener torque is achieved. :arr:
 
so there is nothing i can "F" up as far as timing goes? because i know they have little notches for the timing on the actual pulley. i know you say there is a keyway on the crank shaft so it should only go on one way but im just verifing

im not too woried about getting stuff apart its putting it together i get scared of......

Thanks guys thats why this is my favorite forum!!!!
 
240SicknessX said:
Your biggest challenge will be removing the factory pulley. Dont throw it away, i might want it. For being technically correct I will tell you to use a puller, but a mechanic in the field usually finds more efficient ways of doing things.


I use two pry bars to take off pulleys at work. :)
 
JiujitsuDrift said:
I use two pry bars to take off pulleys at work. :)


Yea just be careful doing that because if you pry too hard on a seized pulley you can crack the timing cover and thats a whole lot more work.
 
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