SR20 Problemita

souless

is that a unicorn fu-..!?
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Car: 90 Coupe
Motor: SR20DET Redtop.

Ebay BOV.
Ebay Piping.
Ebay IC.
Ebay Boost Controller.
Megan? DP.

Ok, I didn't buy none of that ebay BULLSHIT. The car came with it, blame that on the previous idiot owner.

Problem:
Bogs out/hesitates/runs rich/ whatever we can call it when it starts to boost. As long as is in vacuum, it'll accelerate fine to whatever RPM as long as it's not boosting. It doesn't shut off on me at all, only little problem it has is a really low idle when coming to a complete stop, but that's because the shitty ass BOV is venting to the atmosphere. We all know that.:rolleyes:

Now, couple of theories. It's not electrical, we came to that conclusion fast. So the only reason why the car would run like shit when it starts to boost would be a boost leak. Correct? What I'm trying top do is get everyone's opinion before I go buy a new Synapse BOV and hot pipe. Which I'm going to buy that either way, but I want reach the source of this problem first.

Another theory of what this problem could be is turbulence fucking up the MAF's signal to the computer causing the ECU to send too much fuel. This might be happening because the MAF is situated too close to the turbo, I'm already getting a new SR20 oem turbo inlet pipe, probably picking it up tomorrow.

Everything else seems to be working fine. Motor idles perfect, both cold and when it reaches operating temperatures. 150PSI Compression on all 4 cylinders. CAS Timing should be right, even though I haven't checked that.

Here's a quick pic, you guys tell me if you see something where it shouldn't go:

IMG_8918.jpg
 
Yeah. Both guille and juan and everyone else i've aked tell me. BOoSt LeaK!!. I just wanted to make sho' befo' i buy dat BOV yo'. Cuz that's uuhh 220 dollas out my pocket... Well spent though.

Sorry, I had to get my e-thug on.
 
def boost leak get a new bov or remove it and cap that shit and see if it can boost then you know for sure its the BOV. Dont push that shit and blow it up though LMAO
 
Yeah. Both guille and juan and everyone else i've aked tell me. BOoSt LeaK!!. I just wanted to make sho' befo' i buy dat BOV yo'. Cuz that's uuhh 220 dollas out my pocket... Well spent though.

Sorry, I had to get my e-thug on.

fershizzle
 
Tial BOV FTMFW with a 12psi spring! Best BOV Ive owned

BTW... Few things (take from it what u will)

Boost Controller should be tapped directly to the hotpipe as close to the turbo if not on it as u can get it
Boost Gauge Should have its own source on the cold side
FPR Should have its Own Source Under the TB
BOV should also have its own Source under the TB

(all vac lines should be a short as possible and the correct diameter depending on the application)

Dont have that many vac. sources u say? Buy a vac block - cheap and effective ;) goodluck

and yes ur problem sounds like a boost leak or just shitty tune - or possibly fouled plugs (check gap + heat range)

Goodluck
 
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Hey turn on your car.
Get a can of WD-40 then spray (CAREFULLY) anywhere you think might be leaking.
WD-40 is flammable so dont set your @ss on fire

If you have a leak where you sprayed, you'll hear a waver or jump in the idle.
 
Hey turn on your car.
Get a can of WD-40 then spray (CAREFULLY) anywhere you think might be leaking.
WD-40 is flammable so dont set your @ss on fire

If you have a leak where you sprayed, you'll hear a waver or jump in the idle.

That may work for a Vacuum leak but not boost. Chances are it is the BOV.

Also the MAF should be further from the Turbo inlet then it it. It is recommended to have a 90* bend between the MAF and Turbo, or 2 45*s.

Also do what Mike said about the Vacuum routing.
 
is this car a two tone coupe with sentra wheels??, did you buy it from naples ?

( if so i've looked at this car and a shop up here did a leak test , a few of us tried to figure it out but the kid came by twice at night and never came back so i could look at it in the daytime....which would have made it easier.)
 
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