SR20DET Maintence

i have a sandwich plate on my motor for the oil cooler, it allows me to use diffrent oilfliters. so far i have tried and use ka filters/sentra ser/and camry filters and they have worked no problem. do u guys see any diffrence in oil pressure with diffrent weight oils? and what should my oil temps be at?
 
Yo Paul What r the specs on ur new motor? Pics? Who did the machining if any on it? Im about to start my SR Build just lookin for a lil info... :D back to the topic @ hand...
 
i sent the head out but forgot the name of the place ill post later when i remeber but got a stage semi-aggressive port-and polish did 265hks cam with full crower valve train and sodium filled valves.
p2m ras, bottem end is BRAND NEW OEM pistons/rods/crank withe high performance Eagle piston Rings. Cleverty Bearings. Cometc Metal Head Gastet and ARP Head,Rods,Mains. Full T4 Top Mount Turbo Setup Up and V-MOUNT shooting for 400hp with my power fc installed
 
im gonna need a shop to do the port n polish soon, when i get all my parts in.. im doing pretty much the same thing you are.. except for the top mount... one thing me and drez where talking about was when im gonna brake in the engine.. im gonna use the stock turbo and boost the stock boost for the break in period.. just a suggestion!
 
motor is already broken in put over 1k on it and already bouncre of rev limiter, no blowby other than suppose to have motor is perfect ill post pics when my new chassis is completly done!
 
z4k said:



Wrong. ATF has detergents in it. thus keeping the tiny passages in a autotrasmission clean and clear. So flushing a motor with ATF clean the tiny passages which only the light weight of the ATF can reach without causeing harm or low oil pressure to those areas
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whats "wrong" with what i said... all you did is break down the tech side of it.... :bigthumbu
 
yes didn't have to do much since u guys already took care of me! but just wanted a full proof head and bottomend capable of 400hp
 
Tru the OEM bottom end is holding good? i m going to do my motor next but i still dont know if i m going OEM spec or after market forged
 
drftns14 said:
yes didn't have to do much since u guys already took care of me! but just wanted a full proof head and bottomend capable of 400hp
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A Fool Proof Head is NEAR Impossible on a SR20. Contact Andreas Miko if you want to build it the correct way. BTW RASs are not the CORRECT way
 
yeah havent pushed to 400hp on it yet, im gonna wait and buy another bottemend and build it up and then push the stock bottem to 400hp. then see how long it will take it and then switch to the built one!!! just some long term goals of mine!
 
you know for that setup u cant use hollow camshafts?! if y do they will split in half. gotta drop the doe for thoses tomei solid ones!
 
drftns14 said:
you know for that setup u cant use hollow camshafts?! if y do they will split in half. gotta drop the doe for thoses tomei solid ones!
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PONCAM FTW
 
drez said:
if you ever want to "flush" your engine out then before you change your oil again buy 2 extra quarts of oil, 2 quarts of atf and a extra oil filter... drain your old oil and change the filter.... fill it up with 2 atf and 2 oils and let her idle for about 5 or 10 minutes..... DO NOT REV!!!!! . in japan almost all the japanese guys told me to do this... all it really does is push all the old oil that doesnt drain out...
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Yeah I do this every time I buy a car right when I do the first oil change on it
 
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