crayZwhiteboy
Spectator
cliff notes at bottom
get ready for bad grammar
so i had someone put a turbo on my sr and they put the oil return hose from the turbo to the back of the block but they put the clamp on the rubber only not on the rubber thats over the metal tube. so that clamp opens the hose so oil shoots out of the turbo and instead of going back into the motor it sprays all over the engine and down on the ground.
i checked all the shit up top bolts hoses lines etc. i look down on the bottom and see a hose with a clamp. so i start it up and drive it down the block and back. something is wrong with the turbo. i tell him yo this shits fucked up.
so he decides its a smart idea to floor that bitch down and around some twisting roads. reaching maybe 60-70 mph then stopping and driving it hard. i never hit redline when i drive and i thought it was at 7200 but he says he takes his all the way to 8 and i said WTF lol. so he does that once i think, to show me it can. car drive nice, pulls hard. BUT, smokes like a bitch from engine bay AND through the exhaust.... i totally trusted him and as we pull back to the shop RODDD KNOCK. :chair:
he goes wtf and shuts off the motor. first thing he says is "i swear i put that hose on" lol cuz he blew his motor by having that hose off before so he knew exactly what it was. he checks it and says yea its on. i check it by touching it and it slips off the pipe...
i tell him and we reconnect it the right way.
drive home, engine and car sits, get a new turbo, put it on, prime oil, rod knock is apparent. have two mechanics check it out and tell me its a spun bearing. FML, last 3-4 days, two blown turbos, hole in radiator, guy busted my o2 housing, rod knock/spun bearing, capped the tee for the pcv and two ticking sounds begin from my head.....ahhhh
and now long blocks are no longer $800... jdm of miami is taxing at $1000
and the two mechanics say its not worth it because the bearing is shaving metal off the crank and rod so just changing the bearing wont work because there will be gap. and bearings changed alone are $700 plus rods,crank,machine shop.... so looks like the $1000 longblock is the only option right now.
hes accepting responsibility and i was fair with my solution as we both put half towards the new longblock. if it was a shop they would have to buy me a whole new fucking engine so i think $500 is VERY FAIR considering it was completely his fault and i had nothing to do with that line and i brought it back to the shop wanting to check it out again cuz it was smoking out of the engine bay and making a weird noise at the turbo and he wanted to drive it more and thats when it happened
so as of now he will provide $500 and ill scrap together what i can to make up the difference. yaaaa more labor coming up for me..../sarcasm this time im sticking to my original mindset and doing every god damn thing myself
someone shed some light, im in a bad position, anything would help...bash me for all i care. make me feel sane
cliff notes: i got rod knock due to spun bearing. the end
get ready for bad grammar
so i had someone put a turbo on my sr and they put the oil return hose from the turbo to the back of the block but they put the clamp on the rubber only not on the rubber thats over the metal tube. so that clamp opens the hose so oil shoots out of the turbo and instead of going back into the motor it sprays all over the engine and down on the ground.
i checked all the shit up top bolts hoses lines etc. i look down on the bottom and see a hose with a clamp. so i start it up and drive it down the block and back. something is wrong with the turbo. i tell him yo this shits fucked up.
so he decides its a smart idea to floor that bitch down and around some twisting roads. reaching maybe 60-70 mph then stopping and driving it hard. i never hit redline when i drive and i thought it was at 7200 but he says he takes his all the way to 8 and i said WTF lol. so he does that once i think, to show me it can. car drive nice, pulls hard. BUT, smokes like a bitch from engine bay AND through the exhaust.... i totally trusted him and as we pull back to the shop RODDD KNOCK. :chair:
he goes wtf and shuts off the motor. first thing he says is "i swear i put that hose on" lol cuz he blew his motor by having that hose off before so he knew exactly what it was. he checks it and says yea its on. i check it by touching it and it slips off the pipe...
i tell him and we reconnect it the right way.drive home, engine and car sits, get a new turbo, put it on, prime oil, rod knock is apparent. have two mechanics check it out and tell me its a spun bearing. FML, last 3-4 days, two blown turbos, hole in radiator, guy busted my o2 housing, rod knock/spun bearing, capped the tee for the pcv and two ticking sounds begin from my head.....ahhhh
and now long blocks are no longer $800... jdm of miami is taxing at $1000
and the two mechanics say its not worth it because the bearing is shaving metal off the crank and rod so just changing the bearing wont work because there will be gap. and bearings changed alone are $700 plus rods,crank,machine shop.... so looks like the $1000 longblock is the only option right now.
hes accepting responsibility and i was fair with my solution as we both put half towards the new longblock. if it was a shop they would have to buy me a whole new fucking engine so i think $500 is VERY FAIR considering it was completely his fault and i had nothing to do with that line and i brought it back to the shop wanting to check it out again cuz it was smoking out of the engine bay and making a weird noise at the turbo and he wanted to drive it more and thats when it happened
so as of now he will provide $500 and ill scrap together what i can to make up the difference. yaaaa more labor coming up for me..../sarcasm this time im sticking to my original mindset and doing every god damn thing myself
someone shed some light, im in a bad position, anything would help...bash me for all i care. make me feel sane
cliff notes: i got rod knock due to spun bearing. the end
