Im looking at the ksport hydraulic handbrake but i have a few questions. do I need the 3/4 or 5/8 reservoir for my 240 hatch? has anyone done an install thread or anything? i just want to make sure Im doing everything right...i dont like to fuck with brakes lol. what else do I need? sorry if there is a thread on this already, I searched but didnt find what I need. just a simple "this is how you do it" type thing is what im looking for. thanks!
hydraulic handbrake question
- Thread starter KRrotary
- Start date
hey kyle i'm going to be installing one soon so i guess i'll find out for you if you don't beat me too it.
I don't know what size either.
I'm probably gonna be ordering the install kit also.
If i don't like the ksport i'll just sell it and get a baller one.
I don't know what size either.
I'm probably gonna be ordering the install kit also.
If i don't like the ksport i'll just sell it and get a baller one.
dont get ksport get powered by max!!! http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4
It's simple.
A 3/4 cylinder is larger, thus pushes more fluid, harded to pull, but less movement of handbrake to lock rear wheels. A 5/8 cylinder is smaller, pushes less fluid, easier to pull, thus it needs more movement of handbrake to lock rear wheels. Pick which you like best. And dont get the install kit, thats a rip off. Goto a auto store pic up some Japanese thread brake line and run it from the master to handbrake, then to back brakes. I have the same handbrake.
A 3/4 cylinder is larger, thus pushes more fluid, harded to pull, but less movement of handbrake to lock rear wheels. A 5/8 cylinder is smaller, pushes less fluid, easier to pull, thus it needs more movement of handbrake to lock rear wheels. Pick which you like best. And dont get the install kit, thats a rip off. Goto a auto store pic up some Japanese thread brake line and run it from the master to handbrake, then to back brakes. I have the same handbrake.
You run the handbrake in line between master and back brake's.
ksport sucks... the cylinder wears out too quick and if u get it, go with the 3/4 being tht its bigger. ive had a 5/8 for since nov. and its already wore out, im upgrading to the 3/4 bt if it wears out fast like this one did im scrapping it all together.
i was planning on getting the 3/4. ill let you know how it works:bigthumbu
what do you mean by that? you run the line to the rear brake line like with a t or something?
what do you mean by that? you run the line to the rear brake line like with a t or something?
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yeah a T. im gonna do the same thing.
No. take off the line from the master that runs to the back brakes and also remove it from the back brakes where it t's. Then run 1 line from master to handbrake, then another line from handbrake to back brakes. done.
Yes FlyinFinn is correct.
But this is what I am doing (copied from Paul Fryberg)
Disconnect hardline from Master cylinder that goes to rear brakes. Stop.There is no need to disconnect any more hardlines from your brake system.
Now run your new lines from Master cylinder to Handbrake entry.
Run the exit line from handbrake back to hardline you originally disconnected. bleed Done. much less material.
Dont go with K-sport it looks cheap. It's your brakes!! why risk losing pressure cuz of a cheap product???
But this is what I am doing (copied from Paul Fryberg)
Disconnect hardline from Master cylinder that goes to rear brakes. Stop.There is no need to disconnect any more hardlines from your brake system.
Now run your new lines from Master cylinder to Handbrake entry.
Run the exit line from handbrake back to hardline you originally disconnected. bleed Done. much less material.
Dont go with K-sport it looks cheap. It's your brakes!! why risk losing pressure cuz of a cheap product???
I wouldn't do it that way. That'll be one long ass line to the rear brakes.
Plus Bill Sherman and Blake Fuller both use the K-sport handbrake and they do well I'd say.
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length wont affect anything.
and this way the hand brake is before all the bias B/S. So the brakes will work just the same.
Im not saying the K-sport wont work great, but it seems like it could get flimsy after a while. Also if its your daily driver I'd be having worries of that shit malfunctioning if i have to slam on the brakes.
and this way the hand brake is before all the bias B/S. So the brakes will work just the same.
Im not saying the K-sport wont work great, but it seems like it could get flimsy after a while. Also if its your daily driver I'd be having worries of that shit malfunctioning if i have to slam on the brakes.
well i see that PBM offers earls SS lines for a good price and that makes PBM what i'm gonna go with.
So your going to take the line off your master and then wrap it a 180 and bring it into the cockpit. :ugh: Idk, I think that kinda ghetto when brake lines cost like 5 bucks and you can get rid of all that line. Plus the K-sport handbrake is SAE and your stock brake lines are METRIC so you need to cut off the fitting, install metric one and then flare the line again.... just get 2 lines like I said and do it the easy way.
Already been explained but thanks? Maybe it'll help someone.