Blown Something??
- Thread starter Kenrik
- Start date
compression test.
Kenrik said:
Dont give up like that you pansy ass bitch.
Have you done a leak down test yet?
The oil water jackets are totally seperate in a turbo. If something is blown im 99.9 percent sure it wouldnt mix fluids in the turbo.
Are you running electrical fans?
open the rad cap. and see if you get compression \ air bubbles in the radiator. If you do, then thats an easy way to let you know that ur hg is done. If not it could be leaking through a different part of the headgasket. A leak down test will tell you. Although a compression test will tell you if you are not making pressure in one of the cylinders. If your compression test comes back like 150ish across theboard then you wouldnt feel a difference in power or performance. Leak down test.
Kenrik
Driver
It is oil in the coolant..
So there's no way it's the turbo that's letting it in?
If that's true why even bother messing around? I should just order a new headgasket/bolts?
Also, I am going to retire this POS as my daily driver.. I'm looking into buying another car (350z or G35) soon.
So there's no way it's the turbo that's letting it in?
If that's true why even bother messing around? I should just order a new headgasket/bolts?
Also, I am going to retire this POS as my daily driver.. I'm looking into buying another car (350z or G35) soon.
A
AgentRice
New Car Ftw!!!!
A
AgentRice
do the damn thing
because i dont diagnose hg probs every day i would like to see low compression numbers or air in the radiator. then i dunno what hg are you going to get
Kenrik
Driver
kamikaze said:You are the 3rd one taking the same route..... Well im start thinking to stop my project and save myself all the trouble :ugh: , r u sure that u did not cut those corners...
No corners cut...
The only thing I did not do, that could have prevented this was to do the head gasket before I put the engine in.
i wouldnt get a metal gasket unless u are going to deck the block. you should check the block for flatness when you have the head off. get a really strait peice of metal (not scrap) a machined strait peice of steel or aluminum and try to slide different feeler gauges under it in various places across the length and width of the deck surface. Your fsm will tell you how much variation you should have in surface height. Then you should make sure that the flatness of the deck is with in hg specs too.
or maybe read if you bled the coolant system properly. air bubbles in the cooling system reduce the flow and could skew readings.
if you had the coolant system bled correctly well then........ bad luck.
and dood the thing was fine when you first put it in. How many miles do you have on this engine? est?
Kenrik said:
or maybe read if you bled the coolant system properly. air bubbles in the cooling system reduce the flow and could skew readings.
if you had the coolant system bled correctly well then........ bad luck.
and dood the thing was fine when you first put it in. How many miles do you have on this engine? est?
Kenrik
Driver
The cooling system was bleed properly.. I never had a issue with it untill it overheated.
I have about 1000 miles on the engine since I swaped it.
And yah I'm going to get the head/block decked.. it's aluminum and it easily warps.
ooOOo and I was told to get the Apexi HG with arp studs, I remember people having issues with metal HGs leaking though... is it better to go OEM?? I don't want to have to ever do the HG again.
I have about 1000 miles on the engine since I swaped it.
And yah I'm going to get the head/block decked.. it's aluminum and it easily warps.
ooOOo and I was told to get the Apexi HG with arp studs, I remember people having issues with metal HGs leaking though... is it better to go OEM?? I don't want to have to ever do the HG again.
metal hg's leak because they probably didnt deck the block.
if your tq wrench is old verify that the tq adjustments are accurate. if not, buy a new brand name torque wrench.
if your tq wrench is old verify that the tq adjustments are accurate. if not, buy a new brand name torque wrench.
You don't need to deck the block unless it is warped (and they don't warp that easily). I overheated the shit out of my SR (when I blew the hg) and it was flat. Just get the head resurfaced by a good machine shop (and if you do, it would be a good idea to have the valve guides and seals looked over) I replaced my guides, seals, and had a 3 angle valve job and the cost was around 250. If you need a good machine shop, lmk!
As for the gasket - Apexi is the best, Greddy is the worst. I have a Cometic and have had zero problems with it (and I'm pushing 400 these days) for about a year. ARP studs are good but read up on freshalloy.com for proper installation (ARP never made proper studs for rwd sr's so a couple should be trimmed prior to installation).
As for the gasket - Apexi is the best, Greddy is the worst. I have a Cometic and have had zero problems with it (and I'm pushing 400 these days) for about a year. ARP studs are good but read up on freshalloy.com for proper installation (ARP never made proper studs for rwd sr's so a couple should be trimmed prior to installation).
If you have a combonation square you can use that steel metal ruler as a strait edge to check flatness with feeler gauges.
I definitly like mechanical fans opposed to electrical fans....
I definitly like mechanical fans opposed to electrical fans....
kenrik gone luxury drifitng?