some shimming a vlsd info

hey guys, i shimmed my vlsd on my z32 and found out some info that i wasent able to find from other forums.

when i looked it up people just kept talking about adding shims but never really talked about the size of the shims cus they rang from .8mm to 1.49mm and the one on your stock vlsd can be diffrent sizes.

so since i wanted somthing like a 2way i went out and got a 1.10mm shim and added it to my allready stock 1.10mm shim and i ended up geting a welded diff. turns out of you shim a vlsd to 2.20mm u get a welded diff or at least i did. i had no slip at all and it was deff alot easyer then converting an s13 welded diff into a z32 pumkin. next im gona try a 1.49 shim by its self and see what i get. then ill move up from thier to see at what over all size those the vlsd acctualy lock.


so 2.2mm= locked vlsd
 
I heard that when you fck with the shims it shortens the life of the vlsd. Either way nice.
 
well all the shim does is increase the tension in the spider gears inside the diff, and so making the diff its self harder to slip and helping the vlsd keep it locked. after a while the gears would start to eat away at each other and u have metal shavings all over your diffs internals.
 
i not entirely sure vlsds can be shimmed like clutch types. from what i understand vlsds should only work by shear of the fluid not direct friction of plate to plate. but then again i've never fucked with a vlsd. either way im pretty sure the increased metal shavings will be from the increased disc wear not from the spider gears.
 
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^ very true

well the idea is simple just like a vlsd, if you take one apart its an open diff with one spider gear that has the vlsd built into it
 
All this is going to cause, is a broken diff.

This is the 5-6th time this shit has been posted on here, and it only causes parts to wear out at a 100% wear rate.
 
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