Search results

Shifter bushings, and shifter return spring. All 3 of the transmisisons I had on my FC never returned to the middle. They always leaned to the left by 1st & 2nd. I never really cared though...

YES! That's what I was thinking. WTF is up with that mic? Those boats look like soooo much fun...

If the brakes were dragging, you would have probably noticed. -Loss of power -Loss in MPG -Excessive heat coming from the rear brakes/tires -A smell of "hot brakes" associated with the excessive heat. (Can't really describe the smell, but you should be able to determine where it would...

You might want to check the papers for the brake work, is it for front and rear brakes, just front brakes, or just rear? You need to make sure, the rear brakes should last a lot longer than that. (Unless you're poppin the E-brake every 30 seconds.) If your driving habits are "normal," and you...

When was your last brake job? Might need new pads. Also, check the rear bearings.

Is it an OBDI or OBDII? If it's OBDI you can't just take it to the store and have it scanned. There is a way to check it, I've done it before, but can't really remember the way to explain it without the car in front of me. If it's OBDII take it to the auto parts, have them pull out the...

WTF guy... you forgot to list me... lol jk That shit was bad. We are all just chillin and hear 2 loud bangs, look over and there was just a cloud of smoke, and all I saw was a pair of headlights spinning the fuck out all the way across the intersection. And you guys need to get into shape, I...

Oils Engine: Castrol 20w50 Trans: Mobil 1 Syn 75w90 Diff: Mobil 1 80w90 with LSD additive Gasoline: Penzoil 2cycle oil :D Brake: Never changed it, but going to flush it out and put any good quality DOT3 fluid when I get my SS lines. Suspension Stance GR+ Coils Everything else is...

Means it must be delicious! :D:D

Anyway, there may still be air in the lines. The M.Cylinder can sometimes still have air in them if not properly bled. Bleed the lines again, if problems persists, suspect the slave cylinder. Also, the softer pedal feel could be from the new M.Cylider...

Check the clucth hydruaulic system, bleed/flush the system and check for leaks. Leaks can be found on the lines, where the lines connect, on the firewall where the M. cylinder meets the firewall, and sometimes behind the pedal, under the dashboard in the passenger compartment. If all the...

^^ :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

What are you guys racing to? Speed Limit?

Under the "Tool Loaner Program" (from Discount Auto Parts, I would assume it is the same, or similar, in other stores) you usually have to pay the full price of the item, for it to be released to you and then get a full refund when returnig the item. Test the motor, if everything seems fine...

Just be careful, I got the itch to test my sub on my old car and blew on like the first song lol...

1. You need to search 2. Learn to spell 3. You should be looking for anything around 180, anything below 150 is a sign of an unhealthy/bad engine. Variance between cylinders shouldn't be anything more than a 14-15PSI difference.

I would reccomend Exedy, ACT, centerforce, or you can go with stock nissan parts. And if you go with a different company that may have no name parts, I would reccomend you throw away their bearings and go OEM... I like ACT :)

No to what? And anyone who makes a one peice driveshaft should know what they are doing when it comes to balancing the driveshaft, and the strength. Speeds don't matter. And what location? It's going right onto the trans and straight to the differential? No other way to get it on...

+1 Go with a sprung clutch A "resurfaced" flywheel is nothing to be worried about. All they do is shave off a minimal amount of metal to even out the surface of the flywheel. That will not affect the performance of the car in any way. All it does is make a fresh surface for the new clutch...

If you are going to keep the car relatiely stock, with simple mods like intake, header, exhaust, etc, you don't need to get a flywheel, and you would do just fine with a slightly stronger clutch. Just get your existing flywheel machined/resurfaced to mate with the new clutch and follow simple...