help choosing. SR/KA

will do.
i mean the motor runs good. when the injectors are all ok. it has a underdrive pulley and blocked off egr and advanced timing. shit runs hard. but damn im tired of it. and i want to go boost.

not to get off topic but since u blocked off the EGR, does ur check engine light stay on?
 
Most of the problem is tuning a factory N/A engine to be turbo, It's not the problem of doing it but the problem of the owner doing it properly. You cant do it right with a afc or the like's of it, the emanage's of the world are shit. You hear people doing it with these systems only to blow the motor not long after or complain of problems, and the newest ka motor is 11 years old now.
 
If your interested in a cheaper tuning solution I have a buddy that lives in NC, and he rom tuned my ecu in my rb20 car that made probably 320+whp. He will be tuning my t3/t4 57trim ka-t set-up and I'm looking for around 350whp. He charges $200 send me a full list of the mods you will be running and I can it done up for you.
 
If your interested in a cheaper tuning solution I have a buddy that lives in NC, and he rom tuned my ecu in my rb20 car that made probably 320+whp. He will be tuning my t3/t4 57trim ka-t set-up and I'm looking for around 350whp. He charges $200 send me a full list of the mods you will be running and I can it done up for you.

Who is it up in nc??
 
Let me just tell u. I went 3 months looking for a ka and didn't find one for sale until recently. So if u blow it be prepared for a costly build or wait time to find one that's in good condition. Always remember tuning is key. And tuning time is always more than $500.

With the amount of money it takes to make a good ka-t making the same power as an sr with a boost controller will be way more than the sr costs. Now what is it u wanna do? u wanna race or u wanna slide?
 
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You can do a Ka-t with a enthalpy tune for about the same as you would pay for a SR and it would last just the same. its really all about how much work you wanna do.

On the other hand, i Have a S13 Blacktop in my coupe, its stock with a Fmic, it will hold osw's bank in third easy.


so you will have the power you want any way you do it, but i guarantee the Ka-t will have more potential in the end, and be alot more fun.
 
A real tune is getting ur car on a dyno and seeing how it performs. Don't make that mistake and be lazy by ordering from someone who has never driven ur car to send u some bull shit pretune.

SR w/t28 at 12-14lbs, reliable and bring it.
 
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The fact is an sr is an oem setup. Bolt-ons and a little extra boost won't harm a thing. OEM reliability is a beautiful thing and very hard to beat. If that's what you're looking for, source an engine from a reliable importer and you almost can't go wrong.

Boosting a stock KA and expecting reliability is foolish. Sure some people have managed to do so with some success but eventually, something will give - more than likely the rings. I don't care how good your tuning is.

From experience I can tell you that SR's can take a beating in stock form. My last SR did countless events and never had a problem beyond the stock head gasket giving up. When i sold the car i was making 380whp. As far as I know, that car is still being drifted in Finland with even more hp now.

A moderately built KA can do the same and shouldn't cost you much to get there. XAT's old drift car is a prime example. With only aftermarket pistons and shot-peened rods, that car took many beatings from Bill Sherman before it finally gave up - and that was pushing 24+lbs of boost and making over 400whp.

So really the choice is yours. I would be more inclined to tell you to build a KA IF you think you're capable. If you're not that great of a mechanic and want to buy lots of pre-fabbed parts to just bolt on and go, I'd say get an sr.
 
The fact is an sr is an oem setup. Bolt-ons and a little extra boost won't harm a thing. OEM reliability is a beautiful thing and very hard to beat. If that's what you're looking for, source an engine from a reliable importer and you almost can't go wrong.

Boosting a stock KA and expecting reliability is foolish. Sure some people have managed to do so with some success but eventually, something will give - more than likely the rings. I don't care how good your tuning is.

From experience I can tell you that SR's can take a beating in stock form. My last SR did countless events and never had a problem beyond the stock head gasket giving up. When i sold the car i was making 380whp. As far as I know, that car is still being drifted in Finland with even more hp now.

A moderately built KA can do the same and shouldn't cost you much to get there. XAT's old drift car is a prime example. With only aftermarket pistons and shot-peened rods, that car took many beatings from Bill Sherman before it finally gave up - and that was pushing 24+lbs of boost and making over 400whp.

So really the choice is yours. I would be more inclined to tell you to build a KA IF you think you're capable. If you're not that great of a mechanic and want to buy lots of pre-fabbed parts to just bolt on and go, I'd say get an sr.

thank you for that.
i really dont want to get into fabbing shit and etc.
i need a reliable motor that will get me to college and back everyday and to work and the occasional countyline events. maybe after college i can retire it from a daily(because ill be making more money, i hope) and i can get into a motor build. as of now it is my only transportation and it needs to be as reliable as it can. and this ka is shitting on me and i dont feel like rebuilding it. the sr swap is too simple.
 
but aren't you saying you were going to either
A. Rebuild KA
B. Buy sr20 swap, but they still needed to be rebuilt?

Do yourself a favor, because money probably is a huge factor here. Sit down and make a list of all the parts and what they are going to cost you. Compare that and see which one comes out on top. I was comparing KA-t to LS1, and for the money the KA is what is good right now.
 
SR at stock boost all day man, I have mines at stock boost and i have lots of fun with it... I am able to spin 225's in the back and tandem with guys making a lot more HP than me. I drifted a KA24de for over 4 years, it was lots of fun... Now i have the SR and i am having the same amount of fun.... cause suspension OWNS... lmao... get the SR leave it at stock boost, it will be reliable... as soon as you get power hungry the drama will start... my sr swap went like this:

SR= $2000
FMIC = cxracing $200
radiator = cxracing $120
fuel pump = $100
wiring = free
300zx fuel filter = $10

for $2430.00 i finish my SR swap... look at around 2500-3000 to finish yours.... i have donw 4 drift events with the SR, no over heating and no problems... its at 7psi.. plus the guy that said SR 220hp at 7psi ... is more like 180hp...lmao
 
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